Laying Track

OK, so I got the routing done, I've test fit the parts, counted the sections of flex track I need, etc. Now's it time to actually lay some track. Before I do that though, I have to solder up a length BEFORE I curve it. I grab two lengths of code 80 off the pile and lay them down. There's twelve foot length of exposed bench work in front of Thorn that makes a perfect assembly area. First thing first, I plug the soldering iron in so it can get good and hot while I assemble the track. Then I start assembly. I put rail joiners on by slipping the entire "stick" of four joiners on the rails and then breaking off three. They break cleaner this way and I don't drop as many. Then I slide the rest of them onto the other rail and break off two, etc and so on...

Installing Rail Joiners

I connect the two sections together, making sure that the sliding rails are both on the same side. This side will face the center of the curve. I make sure the rails line up and there is no gap. I apply rosin with a micro brush  and make sure it covers the outside of the rail where it meets the joiner. 

Applying Rosin

Now it's time to place the iron against the  bottom of the rail joiner. If the iron's hot and the tip is clean the joint should heat up quick. Don't want to melt the ties. The rosin will smoke a little as it melts and flows down into the joiner. I run the solder along the top of the joiner against the rail. The solder should flow down into the joiner and leave a small bead. I take the iron away and the joint "freezes" as the solder cools. I don't have any photos of this because I'd need three hands to hold the solder, iron and snap a picture with my phone all at the same time. Suffice to say it works and I end up with a pretty clean joint. If it doesn't work I make sure the iron is clean, add more rosin and hit it again.

Soldered Joints

I keep adding sections till I have four (or five) lengths of flex track. I have to pick it up carefully (it gets a bit unwieldy) and move it over to the helix, laying it in a curve around the slot I using. When I do this the sliding rail will move.Even though ties have already been removed from around the joints as they were soldered, the joints on the inside rail will move and usually try to push more ties out of the way. I remove these so the joint can shift and keep forming the circle and removing ties as needed.

Applying Glue

With the track ready to be installed in the slot, I run a bead of tacky glue and use a brush to spread it along the bottom  I only need a thin coat of glue. Don't want it squirting up between the ties. The tacky glue gets, well, tacky in a few moments and will hold the track down while it sets. I move the flex track into the slot and  pin down one end while I work the rest of the length of track along the slot. I make sure the ties are tight against the outside wall of the slot.

Pin Down the End

Once I get the track laid around the panel I pin down the other end. This makes sure the track will stay in the slot while the glue sets. Since I laying the second track I check the spacing with a spacing gauge.

Spacing Gauge

The spacing is good since the slots were routed correctly. If the spacing was too close I would just move the tracks farther apart. Using a 1" bit for routing turned out to be a good thing. Hadn't thought I might need to make adjustments. The extra width allows me to do that.

Finished Level

The process gets repeated four times until all four tracks are in place. I leave the "weights" on the ends of the track and call it a day. Oh yeah...make sure I unplug the soldering iron. Don't want to burn the house down, I've gotten used to living indoors.

Only two levels to go.

Regards,

Frank Musick

Chief Cook & Bottle Washer

Allegheny Eastern Railroad