Player Sleeps With The Fishes

Excuse me for falling back on my video game days, but that's the way things seem to be going. The 3D printing project came to a complete stop when the software I use went south. I reinstalled, but I'm having problems with the enabling the features I need. Can't export stereolithograpy files anymore.

On the positive side I now have enough Bachmann DD40's to build the drives for two centipedes. In Pennsy speak this is the equivalent of one Pennsy BP2 (BP60 in normal PRR classification). It seems a bit wasteful to toss 90% of the locomotive away but I only need the powered trucks. The other parts get sold on E-Bay, a commercial endeavor that may or may not be considered successful so far...

A Bevy of Bachmanns

So the project isn't dead, just in limbo.

For all of those who have been waiting for news on the actual layout I got off my keaster and spent some time in the garage. I think one reason I've been holding back is this whole soldering of rail joints. Trackwork on the helix went extremely slow because A- I wanted to make sure it was right B- I soldered all the rail joints. Soldering, as simple as it is, is like going to the dentist. Something absolutely necessary but something to be avoided. Frankly, I would rather have a root canal.

But then I found something that appeals to me, something that may replace solder on Allegheny Eastern rail joints. There is a product called Wire Glue. It's a concoction of carbon and adhesive that conducts electricity. I started using it on my rail joints. Does it work? I'll let you know. Only cost $5 to find out. I'm thinking that if it does work it may also be just the thing for locomotive drivers. If paint can be used to increase traction, conductive paint might be even better. Strange idea? Probably, but then you're talking to a guy who makes roadbed out of strips of Styrofoam.

Which reminds me...Remember all that discussion about reinforcing that same Styrofoam roadbed to carry significant loads? I tried a couple of different approaches that seemed to work well. Then one day I was doing something totally unrelated to trains and it struck me...I should use strips of 1/4" plywood! I'm not sure what load that would carry but I bet it would be noteworthy.

Ok so what have I done with the actual layout. I started laying down ballast strip west from Spruce Creek...

East of Spruce Creek

I cut my own cork strips (WAY cheaper than manufactured ballast strip) in 8 or 9 foot lengths. I apply a generous helping of tacky glue with a brush and then lay down a cork strip. Simple enough. The fact that the roadbed is exactly the right width makes lining up the strips a snap. I just make sure the cork is flush with the sides of the Styrofoam and it's where it ought to be. There are some places this doesn't work, but they are transitions and not very long...

Ballast Strip Transition

These "transitions" are essentially places where the ballast strip moves so that it's flush with the opposite side of the roadbed. This maintains the proper spacing between the tracks

I had spoken before about the flexibility of the Styrofoam spline. I had some occasion to prove that approaching and leaving Juniata yards...

Passenger Mains Misaligned, East Altoona

You can see in the photo above that the passenger mains missed the track plan on the slab by quite a bit. Aside from providing proof positive that proper planning is a good idea, it gives me an opportunity to exploit the OOPS factor built into the spline. All I had to do to correct this was loosen the screws holding the spline in place and realign it. I ran into the same problem with the freight mains at the west end of the yards...

Freight Mains Misaligned, West End Juniata Yards

Once again all I had to do was loosen the mounting screws and bend the spline...

Corrected Alignment,  West End Juniata Yards

One other area that presented a challenge was the yard bypass for the passenger tracks...

Crooked Roadbed

This section was hard to line up properly because it's inconvenient location. It's at the center of a 3 foot wide portion of benchwork. There's no real way to eyeball the alignment except from either end of the yard area about 7 1/2 feet from the middle of this area. Unfortunately my arms are too short. I'm still working on this, but it's the same process to correct. Loosen the screws, line it up and fasten it down again. 

Bypass Tunnel at Homer

One other thing I had to do came to my attention while laying ballast strip. It isn't really feasible to use a hole saw to create the tunnel bore. I have to do in what was probably similar to the way the PRR did it. The gap will be bridged and the tunnel bore built and filled.

The ballast strip is about a third of the way around. The track will be laid and nailed into place over the entire layout and after the track has settled a bit the joints will be glued and/or soldered. I was going to glue the track in place, but have gone back to the idea of letting the ballast hold it down. The glue that secures the ballast will also fasten the track in place. When the glue has set and dried the nails will be removed.

Regards,

Frank Musick

Chief Cook and Bottle Washer

Allegheny Eastern Railroad