Building a Turnout?

The "mainline" loop is up and running (green on the plan below). I've been using it to test locomotives and freight cars. It also entertains our youngest grandchild. Seems the older ones have outgrown trains for now.

Track Plan

Before I can move on to the branch line (red on plan), I'm gonna need to obtain some turnouts. I've checked and this seems a pretty expensive undertaking, especially if you're using nickle silver code 83 track like I am. I can. They average about $20 each. The two curved turnouts I need cost about $10 or so more. I could settle for code 100 brass track and save a bundle, but I think I'll pass on that.

What I decided to do is create my own turnouts. I tried this before on the N scale layout, but wasn't too successful. Most of the issues I ran into were due to the small size and tolerances at 1:160. HO scale, being about twice as big (1:87) seems like it would be a hell of a lot easier. I gave it a shot and it was.

The first turnout I went for was the curved turrnoiut at the left end of the passing siding. I downloaded and printed a set of templates from the Fast Tracks site. Since this is such a small layout, I chose the tighter turnouts. The two curved turnout at either end of the passing siding are going to be #6. I picked these because the site lists the radii for each "leg" as 18" and 24". Made my life a lot easier than figuring out how a #6 turnout would fit in the track plan.

#6 Curved Turnout

It took a while. First I tried soldering the rails to PC board ties. This didn't go well. The copper kept pulling off of the tie. It doesn't happen right away, but after redoing the solder joint a few times the heat will eventually break whatever bond is securing the copper. I then went with plastic ties and Super Glue gel. Worked pretty well, but the points kept getting glued to the stock rails. I had also made the points in a way that just did not work...

Bad Point Rail

I sharpened the point (the drawing is out of proportion) as per usual practice for handmade turnouts. I also removed the lower flange to clear the toe of the stock rail. Two things went wrong here. One, that lower flange is where you need to solder or glue the points to the throwbar. Second, Since the point never gets razor sharp as shown in the drawing the stock rail needs to be modified to suit...

Stock Rail

The modification to the stock rail bothers me. Since you are actually changing the rail head, you are altering the surface the wheels run on. Some modelers perform this operation and their turnouts work fine. It seemed like there might be a better way.

On the third try I went back to soldering. I also created a new set of points and stock rails. I filed the point down on one side only, the side that rests against the stock rail. I left the toe on the point in place...

Revised Point

To make sure the points nested against the stock rail I simply removed the toe where the points would make contact...

Revised Stock Rail

It may not seem like it would work, but it does. At least in tests. The test car runs over the points with no issues. I still have to gap the copper on the ties. I'm looking into DCC wiring before I cut any gaps in the rails...

Switch Points

The real test will come when the switch is installed on the layout. If things go smoothly I'll start on the second curved turnout.

By the by...I've read somewhere that turnouts are easy. They are not "rocket science" and other such things. I don't think this is entirely correct. You need to develop some expertise with a soldering iron before attempting this at home.

In other news I'm slowly accumulating HO scale rolling stock and motive power. There's an AHM SW1 that's being modified to an SC1. The difference is welded versus cast frames. There are a few other details that also need to be changed. Alledgedly the AHM model is out of scale and runs wonky. It was cheap so I bought it. Right now it's serving duty on the track cleaning train...

Track Cleaning Train

The train had a logging caboose but coupler height needs adjustment. It's temporarily serving as a test car for turnout construction.

The track cleaner itself is made from an old gondola I found at the hobby shop. It cost me $1. It's wood and metal construction with sprung trucks. Not sure who made it but the weight is about 4 ounces, a perfect weight to hold the cleaning pad in place. I think the pad is from Athearn. It's kept in contact with the track by four springs. I modified the gondola frame to accept it...

Sprung Cleaning Pad

Since I'm using DCC I want to keep the track as clean as possible. This is a bunch better than running and abrasive pad over the rails with my hand. As you can see, it does the job...

Rail Grunge

You'll notice the bright metal wheels on the car. I'm equipping all my cars with them. They work and look better than the original plastic wheels. I used Intermountain wheels on my N scale cars. These are from Walthers.

Finally, a new iron horse has been introduced to the stable. It's an IHC / Mehano Mogul (2-6-0) just like the camelback. I paid $20 for it on EBay. Needed some cleanup and a shim to keep the gears engaged. Still have to remove the lettering and repaint it...

Mehano 2-6-0

Just for fun I ran the two steamers double headed on a train. Overkill, considering the train is only two empty hoppers and a caboose. Once the second engine gets a decoder it should be quite a show...

Regards,

Frank Musick